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Latest News / Port-Eynon Beach
HISTORICAL LOCAL CAUSES OF FORESHORE SAND CHANGES IN PORT-EYNON BAY: A CASE STUDY
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“Critics of dredging” attribute dredging operations by Llanelli Sand Dredging (LSDL) on Helwick Bank since 1993 as the cause of morphological changes of Port-Eynon beach in the 1990s. However, historical data sources show that Port-Eynon Bay experienced serious coastal problems before LSDL dredging operations started. Necessary sand dune reclamation undertaken by the local authority prior to 1993, rather than activities outside of Port-Eynon Bay, caused the change in the appearance of the foreshore.
HISTORICAL DATA AND INFORMATION
The intertidal area has been the traditional interface for the United Kingdom’s main agencies for land and sea mapping: Ordnance Survey (OS) maps contain data and features to Mean Low Water Medium Tides, but without elevation data below Ordnance Datum Newlyn, whereas the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO) usually survey and map the seabed in detail up to local Chart Datums (approximately Lowest Astronomical Tide), with much sparser mapping in the intertidal zone up to Mean High Water Spring Tides. In the past decade or so, much more interest has been shown in mapping the coastal zone, where geological and geomorphological processes can be elucidated from data sources such as historical OS maps and Admiralty charts, photographic evidence, and various survey data.
This section examines historical data sources for Port-Eynon foreshore, most sources being in the public domain.
1879 (Ordnance Survey 1:2,500 map) [DWF 268KB]
The map contains no elevation data except for sparsely distributed spot heights around Port-Eynon village, which for this period in time would have been reduced to Ordnance Datum Liverpool.
In this era, the Ordnance Survey utilised mainly a basic geomorphological representation of rock, mud, sand, and shingle for foreshore terrain. Shingle included any form of fine, medium, and coarse gravel, cobbles, and boulders, undifferentiated in terms of geological age, facies, or genesis. Historically, no separate hatching patterns were used for foreshore facies such as mussel beds or clay/peat outcrops such as the Submerged Forest Series, and these facies were included in the shingle classification. Such usage can be confirmed by examination of the well-known exposures of the Submerged Forest Series in historical maps of the western Swansea Bay foreshore (1884 OS map at 1:10,560; 1899 OS map at 1:2,500; 1900 OS map at 1:10,560; and, 1917 OS map at 1:2,500), where the exposures were represented solely by the shingle pattern of hatching. Also, in historical and current editions of Admiralty Chart 1161 (Swansea Bay), the Submerged Forest Series exposures on the Swansea Bay foreshore were labelled as shingle. Therefore, in this article, the term shingle (in italics) incorporates older Holocene sediments such as the Submerged Forest Series and lag gravels.
In addition to a linear shingle development along the High Water Mark (Ordinary Tides), which is interpreted as a storm beach development, there was a shingle outcrop of approximately 4,022m2 on the Port-Eynon foreshore coincident with the central part of Outcrop A (see 2001 map). Sedgers Bank was also hatched as shingle instead of rock.
Supra-tidal coastal dunes covered an area of about 17.6 hectares (176,000m2), and the map shows that the southern part of Port-Eynon village is built upon these coastal dunes; also, several fields recessed into the dune hatching are probably part of the dune system. The dune hatching pattern was simplistic without any differentiation between sand and vegetation areas.
1898 (Ordnance Survey 1:2,500 map) [DWF 304KB]
By 1898, the foreshore outcrop of shingle had intercalated sand hatching, which can be interpreted as either the shingle exposure was interspersed with sand or the shingle was only slightly elevated above the surrounding sand cover. The area of exposure was comparable with the 1879 outcrop, being 4,073m2, and the shingle development along the High Water Mark (Ordinary Tides) was also less pronounced, being replaced largely by sand hatching. Therefore, the Port-Eynon foreshore appearance is interpreted as having a greater sand cover in 1898 than in 1879. However, eastwards, on the Horton foreshore, there was a large outcrop of shingle intercalated with sand hatching, with rock pinnacles protruding through the shingle over an area of about 880m2. However, discounting the rock pinnacle area and storm beach area, CAD computer mapping measurements indicate that in total shingle occupied some 39,164m2 of Port-Eynon and Horton foreshore in 1898.
In the dune system, there was little change in the hatching pattern and distribution, except for an eroded gully near 247100mE, 185350mN.
1915 (Ordnance Survey 1:2,500 map) [DWF 273KB]
On Port-Eynon foreshore, the shingle development along the High Water Mark became re-established as a pronounced entity, although its width was not as great as in 1879. Similarly, the foreshore outcrop was more discrete than in 1898, being slightly larger, about 4,655m2. Also, on the Horton foreshore, the shingle exposure was more pronounced than in 1898 and slightly larger, having an area of 43,951m2 (again, excluding the interpolated continuation of the High Water Mark shingle development). Similarly, rock pinnacles continued to be exposed in the eastern part of the shingle area, extending over some 1890m2. Discounting the rock pinnacle area, in 1915 some 46,716m2 of shingle was exposed on Port-Eynon and Horton foreshore in total.
In 1915, the eroded gully near 247100mE, 185350mN was joined by the development of a similar feature near 247500mE, 185530mN.
The growth of Port-Eynon and Horton villages is also evident in the historical OS maps.
1950 (Oblique aerial photograph, RAF sortie 03 July 1950) [DWF 202KB]
Key features in this oblique aerial photograph include:
(a) A small exposure of older Holocene sediments, i.e. shingle (Submerged Forest Series and lag gravels) in the mid-intertidal area, covering an estimated 1,000-2,000m2
(b) Possibly some shingle over bedrock at the northeast edge of Sedgers Bank, and
(c) An estimated 20% of the coastal dune system being exposed sand, with large expanses of sand at (i) the access area from Port-Eynon village down to the foreshore, and (ii) a major sand blowout at the dune front, mid-way between Port-Eynon and Horton. Also, there were many medium-scale sand blowouts in front of Port-Eynon village.
1961 (Aerial photograph, RAF sortie 13 October 1961) [DWF 495KB]
A comparison of the 1950 and 1961 aerial photographs shows a major degeneration of the dune system, with an increased percentage of sand exposed. The major sand blowout between Port-Eynon and Horton has increased in area by about 30%, as has the access-way from Port-Eynon village. What in 1950 were medium-scale blowouts near Port-Eynon have increased to become major features, and medium-scale blowouts are now evident between the major blowout and Horton.
Spring tides occurred on Friday 13 October 1961, with HW Mumbles at 0802hrs and 2016hrs GMT, and LW at 0132hrs and 1345hrs GMT, and the tideline in the photograph indicates that the frame was taken between about 1245hrs – 1445hrs GMT. The photograph shows an exposure of older Holocene sediments, comprising the main outcrop, Outcrop A, and extending to, and draped over, part of Sedgers Bank, occupying about 17,250m2.
In 1879, the coastal dune system covered an area of ~176,100m2, but the hatching pattern of the day did not differentiate between areas of dune vegetation and sand within the dune system. However, with the use of plan-view aerial photographs, it is possible to compare the original dune extent in 1879 with the dune vegetation limits in the aerial photographs. In 1961, the area of dune vegetation was ~150,400m2, which subtracting from the 1879 area, indicates that dune sands covered ~25,700m2 within the original 1879 boundary, i.e. about 15% of the extent of the dune system area in 1879.
1969 (Aerial photograph, Ordnance Survey 07 August 1969) [DWF 381KB]
This photograph was acquired on Thursday 07 August 1969 (HW Mumbles 0049hrs and 1315hrs GMT, LW Mumbles 0656hrs and 1926hrs GMT), the mid-tide location and direction of shadow on the main village buildings indicating acquisition sometime between 1015hrs and 1115hrs GMT. Because of the mid-tide timing of the sortie, only about 2,800m2 of older sediments is observed above the tideline, being part of the drape over the northeast part of Sedgers Bank.
The degeneration of the coastal dune system has reached a point where the stability of the southern area of Port-Eynon village is threatened by major undermining [DWF 415KB], with increased sand exposure in the dune system compared to 1961 and the development of medium-scale sand blowouts within the interior of the dune system, linked to the numerous interconnected pathways.
Dune vegetation covered ~132,800m2 and dune sands covered ~43,300m2 within the 1879 dune limits, i.e. 25% sand exposure.
1978 (Aerial photograph, Ordnance Survey 11 June 1978) [DWF 326KB]
By 1978, the continuing degeneration of the coastal dune system has contributed to a seaward progradation of higher foreshore sands and dune sands. About 126,100m2 was covered by dune vegetation and dune sands covered ~50,000m2, i.e. 28% sand area within the 1879 boundary.
Evidence of coastal reclamation works [DWF 198KB] is seen clearly in this photograph, in the form of (a) periphery fencing around the dune system, to keep people out of the area, with fixed main pathways from the car parks to the foreshore area, and (b) sand fence traps, to catch and fix aeolian (wind-blown) sand.
No older Holocene sediments were exposed in the beach area, but there was an exposure of older sediments partly draped over Sedgers Bank, covering about 3,900m2 of the bedrock.
1981 (Aerial photograph, Meridian 16 April 1981) [DWF 539KB]
The effects of the remedial coastal reclamation works are evident in an increased vegetation within the coastal dune system and a reduction in the area of sand exposure: ~144,200m2 of dune vegetation and ~31,900m2 of dune sands i.e. ~18% sand area.
Compared to 1978, there has been a major increase in the number of sand fence traps [DWF 258 KB], to catch and fix wind-blown sand, both within the higher foreshore and dune sand areas, and within the vegetation cover.
Older Holocene sediments are seen only in the main outcrop, Outcrop A, occupying about 5,100m2.
1992 (Aerial photograph, Ordnance Survey 26 May 1992) [DWF 326KB]
By 1992, the coastal dune regeneration was mostly complete. Nearly all of the sand blowouts have been reclaimed and the vegetation now extended to the line of the periphery fencing first seen in the 1978 photograph. This boundary is approximately coincident with the seaward limit of the dune hatching depicted in the historical OS maps, 1879-1915. Dune vegetation covered ~168,200m2 within the 1879 limits, with ~7,900m2 of dune sand area, i.e. 4% sand exposure.
1994 (Aerial photograph, Cartographic Services Ltd 05 September 1994) [DWF 620KB]
The coastal dune vegetation remained stable at the periphery fencing boundary, with a slight progradation of the higher foreshore sand zone. Vegetation covered ~171,800m2 of the 1879 dune limits, with only ~4,300m2 of dune sand (2% sand exposure).
An area of ~30,200m2 of older Holocene sediments was exposed on the beach, formed into a pattern of four outcrops (see 2001 map). However, within the boundary, the percentage exposure of older sediments compared to internal sand cover is about only 30%, so therefore the actual exposure of older sediments is only ~10,000m2.
1995 (Aerial photograph, Cartographic Services Ltd 10 August 1995) [DWF 657KB]
The boundary limits of the older sediments was ~39,100m2, with an estimated 60% actual exposure (~23,500m2) compared to internal sand cover. Mostly, the exposure pattern consisted of a large expanse of Outcrops A, B, and D (see 2001 map).
Dune vegetation covered an area of ~171,800m2 within the 1879 boundary and sand covered only ~4,300m2, and the frontage of dune vegetation remained stable along the line of the periphery fencing.
1996 (Aerial photograph, Cartographic Services Ltd 13 August 1996) [DWF 622KB]
Seaward progradation of the higher foreshore sands remained a noticeable beach process. Dune sands occupied only ~4,200m2 within the dune limits and vegetation covered ~171,900m2. The dune vegetation remained fixed along the line of the periphery fencing, and the near consistency of the dune system exposure since 1992 indicates the effectiveness of the remedial coastal works.
The boundary limits of the older sediments was ~19,200m2, with an estimated 20% actual exposure of older sediments (~3,900m2) compared to internal sand cover. Mostly, the exposure pattern consisted of a large expanse of Outcrops A and D.
2001 (LIDAR contour data August 2001) [DWF 664KB]
Unfortunately the exposure of sand within the total higher foreshore/coastal dune area cannot be differentiated in the airborne laserscanner (LIDAR) data. LIDAR data provide widespread elevation data for both the land surface and the intertidal area.
The boundary limits of the older Holocene sediments are shown for 29 December 2000, being almost the maximum exposure in recent years. It is evident that the distribution comprises four basic outcrops, i.e. the main outcrop, Outcrop A, which has had recurring exposure throughout the historical sources reviewed here, and the smaller outcrops (B, C, and D), of which Outcrop D has been the more frequently exposed.
2002 (LIDAR contour data August 2002) [DWF 1,050KB]
This contour map displays the mapped boundary limits of the older Holocene sediments in the past few years. In the oldest dataset (29 December 2000), there was no internal sand within the boundary limits, but successive mapping has shown an increase in the internal sand cover inside the boundary limits: estimated at 33% (January 2002), 50% (March 2002), and 80% (February 2003).
EVIDENCE FOR LOCAL CAUSES OF LATE 1980s AND 1990s SAND LOSS ON PORT-EYNON FORESHORE
1. Exposure of older Holocene sediments (Submerged Forest Series and lag gravels) prior to commencement of dredging operations.
Anecdotal statements such as “Since the Llanelli Sand Dredging Company began extracting sand nearly a decade ago, locals have witnessed a steady fall in the level of sand on a number of beaches until Port Eynon Bay, for example, is stripped to rock for more than half its area” (Gower Society Press Release, 11 July 2000) and allegations that the older Holocene sediments (Submerged Forest Series and lag gravels) in Port-Eynon Bay have (a) never been exposed within “recordable” time, or (b) been exposed briefly for days only and then re-covered by sand, are demonstrably untrue, being contradicted in data and information in the public domain.
Not only are the older Holocene sediments recorded in historical Ordnance Survey maps (e.g. 1879, 1898, and 1915) and observed in aerial photographs prior to Llanelli Sand Dredging's operations on Helwick Bank but also the occurrence of the older sediments on Port-Eynon beach in the late 1920s/ early 1930s were described at length in several scientific publications, e.g.
(b) George, T.N., 1932. The Quaternary Beaches of Gower. Proceedings of the Geologists Association. Vol.43, 291-324.
Since the issue of the accompanying website article History of Port-Eynon Beach in December 2001, “critics of dredging” have attempted to dismiss these data as inconclusive for various, unqualified reasons. However, the fact remains that on the occasions when the foreshore was mapped by professional surveyors from the Ordnance Survey, and scientists such as T Neville George, in the period from the late 1870s to the early 1930s, the recorded mapped outlines of the older Holocene sediments were the extent of their exposure at the time of mapping.
2. Previous coastal erosion problems in Port-Eynon Bay
Several media and website sources often refer to a “golden era”of Gower beaches, largely in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, especially in comparison to the visual appearance of a beach such as Port-Eynon in the 1990s, and indeed, many people have photographic collections of Gower beaches taken during this era.
However, whilst alluding to a “golden” state of Port-Eynon beach (such as below), none of the above sources mention that the highly sand-charged state of the beach was coincident with major coastal erosion at Port-Eynon, where the distinct possibility of undermining the southern part of Port-Eynon village necessitated a programme of coastal reclamation works undertaken by the local authority. Aerial photographs from the 1950s to 1980s clearly chronicle this major degeneration in the coastal sand dune system backing Port-Eynon Bay; at the same time, these photographs show a foreshore increasingly well charged with sand.
3. Coastal reclamation works, 1970s and 1980s
The necessary coastal reclamation started in the 1970s and continued throughout the 1980s. Such measures included regeneration through sand fence traps, planting of marram grass, and, seemingly, recharging of sand from the foreshore prior to planting.
Coastal reclamation: sand fence traps in the coastal sand dune system, near Horton car park, 11 June 1978
3D imagery [DWF 576KB] from the airborne laserscanner data show that the frontage of the coastal dune system, from the access-way at Port-Eynon car park eastwards to the pathway from Horton car park, is occupied by a relatively level terrace morphology along over 700m of dune front. Also, photographs on the beach illustrate this relatively level terrace frontage:
Dune front terrace, near midway between Port-Eynon and Horton in a similar location to the 3D LIDAR grid imagery, 30 January 2002
Dune front terrace, Port-Eynon village, 03 February 2003
This terrace has infilled all of the previous major sand blowouts evident in the 1950 - 1981 aerial photographs. Given the varied orientation of the sand fence traps in the 1978 and 1981 photographs, the relative levelness of the terrace indicates that the terrace did not accrete naturally but was landscaped almost certainly from reclaimed sand. Structures of such regularity of levelness over 700m length of dunes are not known in naturally occurring coastal dune systems. CAD measurements indicate that the terrace occupies ~8,500 – 10,000m2, and it is estimated that the terrace sand volume is 15,000 – 25,000m3. Anecdotal evidence acquired by LSDL indicates that the sand was reclaimed by the local authority from the well-charged foreshore of the time.
OTHER FACTORS THAT RELEGATE DREDGING AS A CAUSE OF FORESHORE EROSION IN PORT-EYNON BAY
1. Coastal “over-protection” at Port-Eynon and a change in the proportionality between onshore and offshore aeolian sand transport
Whilst the coastal reclamation works of the 1970s and 1980s was completely necessary to safeguard the hinterland of Port-Eynon, the works have appeared to “over-protect” the coastal dune system.
Prior to the works, given (a) the dominance of westerly winds, and (b) the northwest/southeast orientation of Port-Eynon Bay, it is likely that bi-directional aeolian transport processes affected Port-Eynon foreshore: pre-dominant northwestward onshore transport and sub-ordinate southeastward offshore transport. Historical OS maps and early scientific publications suggest that these two transport directions co-existed with a slight imbalance in proportionality in favour of onshore transport (hence the existence and maintenance of the coastal dune system), with occasional, variable surfeits in onshore transport exposing the underlying older Holocene sediments.
However, it is evident that the proportionality balance became affected in the post-war period, with the role of sub-ordinate offshore transport increasing as a result of the degeneration of the coastal dune system. Part of the cause was due to natural sedimentary processes but the major contributor was increased human activity within the dunes, especially manifest by the increased number of pathways worn through the dune system, as viewed in consecutive aerial photographs (e.g. compare 1950, 1961, and 1969).
Although successful in regenerating the coastal dune system, the remedial measures have affected the proportionality of the previous bi-directional aeolian transport, with an increased influence in pre-dominant onshore transport. With the widespread dune vegetation cover and the creation of dedicated walkways within the dune system, the dune system efficacy for trapping sand is now much greater than prior to the remedial works. The absence of even minor sand blowouts precludes any return of sand in a southeastwards direction. Ecologists have advised LSDL that present-day procedures for coastal dune remedial works are not so “over-protective”.
Consequently, the sand transport mechanisms of Port-Eynon beach now have little access to the substantial sand reservoir within the coastal dune system.
2. Previous exposure of Older Holocene sediments
Whereas the subject of older Holocene sediments was addressed in the previous section, one important aspect has not been covered. Although the 1992 aerial photograph was taken near to High Water, it does show two, distinct, incomplete exposures of Outcrops B (1242m2) and C (913m2) above the tideline. Throughout the monitoring history of Helwick Bank operations since 1993, Outcrops A and D have been the most-frequently exposed areas of the older sediments, and Outcrops B and C have been observed only when Outcrop A is quite large (e.g. 2001 LIDAR data). Therefore, on 26 May 1992, well over 12 months before Llanelli Sand Dredging commenced operations on Helwick Bank, these exposures of Outcrops B and C [DWF 238KB ] seriously question the validity of an activity yet to take place as being the cause of their exposure.
3. Weak, bi-directional littoral drift
Beach profiles have been measured biannually at three fixed transects on Port-Eynon beach since prior to dredging operations, with a pre-dredging baseline survey in February 1993. These beach profiles are measured by a Total Station, and referenced to Ordnance Datum Newlyn.
By taking a fixed length of transects on a repetitive basis, for each survey it is possible to plot changes in mean beach elevation over the length of transect. A comparison of the three profiles at Port-Eynon [DWF 209KB] indicates that a weak, bi-directional littoral drift operates along the foreshore, i.e. there is a general pattern that whenever beach elevations at Profiles 1 and 2 decrease (i.e. bounding the outcrops of older sediments), the elevation at Profile 3 (in the main sand part of the beach) increases, and vice versa.
The basic implication of this pattern of weak, bi-directional littoral drift is that during the years when the older Holocene sediments were exposed in the 1990s, the larger beach sand area to the east had a higher beach elevation, and with the recent, post-2000 sand influx (described below), the beach elevation of the large sand area has decreased. Consequently, exposure of the older Holocene sediments does not indicate de facto that sand has been lost completely from the foreshore area, but simply moved from one part of the foreshore to another.
4. Post-2000 sand influx within the older sediments’ boundary
Since early 2001, the outcrops of older Holocene sediments on Port-Eynon beach have experienced a major influx of sand. In late December 2000, the boundary limits of the older sediments totalled 47,500m2, with virtually no sand surface within the boundary limits; this time was probably the maximum exposure of the older sediments in recent decades and arose because of the very stormy autumn of 2000, when three major storms hit the South Wales coastline: 27 October - 01 November, 24 - 27 November, and 09 - 14 December. However, exposure of this magnitude is not unknown in previous years; for example, the historical OS map of 1915 outlines a foreshore exposure of 46,700m2.
Port-Eynon beach, looking at the car park, 29 December 2000
Port-Eynon beach, looking at the car park, 03 February 2003
The sand influx started in spring 2001, and although variations in the exposure of older sediments occur throughout the months of a year, by January 2002, the boundary limits of the older sediments had reduced to ~29,500m2, but with an internal sand cover estimated at about 33%. Thus, the amount of older sediments exposed is January 2002 was ~20,200m2. The scale at which sand changes can take place on Port-Eynon beach was exemplified by measurements in March 2002, during a trial survey, when the boundary limits were mapped at 27,500m2 but with an estimated 50% internal sand cover, giving about 13,800m2 exposure of older sediments. By early February 2003, it was impossible to recognise the older sediments as the four discrete outcrops, as the internal sand cover had increased to about 80% within boundary limits of 27,100m2, giving an exposure of only 6,400m2 of older sediments.
Dredging operations have remained at near similar orders of magnitude throughout the years.
CONCLUSIONS
- The era when Port-Eynon beach was well charged with sand (1950s to 1980s) coincided with a serious problem of coastal degeneration that necessitated remedial coastal reclamation works.
- During the active phase of coastal reclamation, there is reasonable evidence in the resultant dune morphology that the relatively level terrace frontage was reclaimed from foreshore sand; anecdotal evidence given to LSDL corroborates this assertion. A structure of such regular morphology is not known in naturally occurring coastal dune systems.
- The coastal dune regeneration has probably overprotected the dune system, the removal of sand blowouts thereby excluding any possible southeastward offshore transport from the sand dune reservoir.
- A comparison of beach profiles, 1993 - 2003, identifies a weak, bi-directional mechanism of littoral drift, and the pattern of changes in beach elevations indicates that exposure of older Holocene sediments does not necessarily imply loss of sand from the whole foreshore area, but simply "back and fore" sideways littoral transport.
- In summary, an examination of historical OS maps, aerial photographs, and survey data indicate that the patterns of sediment changes on Port-Eynon foreshore have arisen probably from quite localised causes, some man-made, and do not require (a) sedimentary processes external to Port-Eynon Bay, nor (b) activities such as dredging operations occurring “after the event”, to explain their origins and causes.
Declarations and Acknowledgements
The historical Ordnance Survey maps and aerial photographs in this article are used under licence and/or permission.
HISTORICAL ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPS 1879, 1898, 1915
Copyright © and/or Database Right Landmark Information Group and Ordnance Survey
Crown Copyright and/or Database Right 2001. All Rights Reserved.
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHS 1950 and 1961
Crown Copyright/MOD. Reproduced with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH 1969
Reproduced from 1969 Ordnance Survey aerial photograph with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, © Crown Copyright NC/03/15524
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH 1978
Reproduced from 1978 Ordnance Survey aerial photograph with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, © Crown Copyright NC/03/15524
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH 1981
© Crown copyright material is reproduced with the permission of the Controller of HMSO and Queen’s Printer for Scotland
(Source: Welsh Assembly Government)
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH 1992
Reproduced from 1992 Ordnance Survey aerial photograph with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, © Crown Copyright NC/03/15524
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHS 1994, 1995, 1996
Photographed by Cartographical Services Ltd on behalf of Llanelli Sand Dredging Ltd
Dr C M Davies
July 2003